Trattoria Antico Fattore

Proximity to a very good restaurant is the best way to find it and here's the proof. Trattoria Antico Fattore happened to be around the corner and one door down from an apartment we rented this year in Florence. If it were not for a personal recommendation and a very generous gift from our landlady, we easily could have found it on our own, as the aromas wafted across our threshold. Whenever asked about how to find good restaurants in a foreign country, my initial response is to say, "Follow your nose.", and that advice would not have failed me in this instance. How did I miss it for all the times I've been in Florence....it's a mystery. That will not be the same case in the future, because this restaurant is adept at producing excellent Tuscan cuisine that begs to never be missed again.

Crostini is the classic Tuscan antipasti. You can find it in many parts of Italy but everyone will admit to the fact that it originated in Tuscany. Liver crostini seems to be the most typical. I'm sorry, mi dispiace, but it looks like cat food to me and I just cannot wax poetic about it, indeed it's difficult to even look at this photograph, but my dining companions ate it without complaint, except to describe it as having a strong liver taste. For my tastes the grilled polenta with porcini mushrooms was exquisitely earthy and had an outstanding contrast in textures. My money is on the polenta and mushroom crostini as the clear winner in the antipasti taste test and it wins hands down in the eye appeal category too.

On my own for lunch one afternoon, I ventured in and ordered the polenta porcini crostini and the above photographed pasta dish, described as tortelli with white truffle sauce. I suspected there were also porcini in the sauce to extend it, but the sweet, earthy, truffle scent was well pronounced and quite evident in the drizzle of truffle oil on top. It may very well have been "porcini cream" with truffle oil. No matter, it was delicious and I was surprised and delighted by the filling that turned out to be made with potato and parsley.

A new one for me, this combination is worth some experimentation at home. It would be nice to reproduce with perhaps some parmigiano added. Speaking of which, the waiter warned me not to add cheese to the pasta as it would destroy the truffle taste. My underdeveloped instinct for rebellion awoke and I resisted his advice. My well developed need for conformity, however, restrained the use of the cheese and it provided the needed taste of a little salt to enhance the truffle.

Perhaps the two best known zuppe of Tuscany were served to us during our "tasting menu" specially arranged for us by our landlady Rossella Ristori Uffizi Apartment . During our negotiations for the rental I had offered to show her a few things on the computer that would enhance imagery on her website. I found her emails charming and gladly put in the time as a good deed. She felt obliged to do something in exchange, and arranging this special tasting of traditional Tuscan food was the result. The photo on the left is Pappa al Pomodoro. You can see the olive oil glistening on top. On the right is the other classic bread soup called Ribolito that literally translates to reboiled. This rich, filling, and rustic soup is primarily made of vegetables, beans, bread and olive oil. Perfect for that cold, rain drenched evening and rewarming my bones at the mere thought of it.

What could be more Tuscan than beans? The photo above shows the heartiness of the bean and sausage stew. Again another nicely executed classic recipe. The lamb and artichoke combination is a lovely rich combination of flavors and a true comfort food. Since Toscano bread is baked without salt, it makes a good vehicle for sopping up the pan juices of the lamb.

Of the three entrees we tried, the veal with porcini sauce was the dish that appealed to everyone equally. Often, this means a middle of the road, safe bet, but this selection while predictable in flavor had a heady, earthy note due to the porcini and spoke well of the Fall season. All in all, this was a very good meal and we were so full we could not manage dessert.

http://www.mega.it/antico.fattore/efattore.htm

V.Lambertesca 1/3r

FLORENCE

Phone +39 055 288975

Fax +39 055 283341

Closed on Sunday

Amici Di Ponte Vecchio

This small hole-in-the-wall pizzeria was discovered by my husband and nephew on our last trip to Florence. While I was shopping at one of the markets for dinner ingredients, they were enjoying a light lunch in this highly efficient space. It was good enough that they insisted I join them there the following day. It's easy to miss because of its size, but worth investigating for an inexpensive, light meal. Most patrons hit and run, standing at the bar, but there is a small shelf running the length of the shop with 4 or 5 stools if you want to sit while dining. I've been to Italy on numerous ocassions, but no matter how many times, have never found standing while eating very satisfactory. It distracts me from savoring the food.

No wood burning pizza ovens here, this is strictly a modern operation, but the pizza doesn't suffer from the deprivation of charred wood. Truthfully it was a decent pizza. When you walk in, you're struck by the fact that the counter is loaded with many individual sized pizze with many different toppings; a nice visual "menu", but the pizze are made fresh, so I'm still curious about what happens to those that were pre-made. Perhaps they are taken out to be reheated at home or could there be a cold pizza culture in Italy?

Ordering a pannini wasn't much trouble, I just pointed to the cold cuts that I preferred, although knowing their names was a plus in the negotiations. This particular Sopressatta happened to be very spicy and was a good mix with the fat laden Mortadella. The slight reddish orange cast of the red pepper was a good give-away concerning the heat, but admittedly, this was the hottest cold cut I've ever eaten. The sausage pizza was less of a surprise in taste, more predictable.

What was a surprise was the pizza ordered by our nephew. Actually the surprise was in the ordering more than in the content of the pizza. Having never tried capers before, he decided to take the plunge and ate a few anchovy in the process. It was nice to see another family member dive into a new culinary adventure, not knowing what to expect but taking the risk. The next day he surprised me again by ordering his first espresso, while we toured Venice together; he is not a coffee drinker, but liked it.

There is no menu link, so no address, but the restaurant is on the south bank of the Arno river just a few doors east of the Ponte Vecchio on the Oltro Arno side of the city.

Osteria De' Peccatori

Wandering through the streets of Florence is a fun pastime and on each trip there, I work on walking in neighborhoods I haven't seen before. One of these days I hope to know the downtown like the back of my hand. I've spent less time in the Santa Croce area than near the Duomo, so on this particular trip I walked from Piazza Signoria passed Piazza Santa Croce and onto the Mercato San Ambrogio, where I made a few purchases before heading back toward our rental apartment. I took out my trusty map and decided to walk along a street that would put me in the vicinity of the Bargello Museum. Then I found the small Piazza San Firenze as I worked my way south; it seemed a crossroads more than a piazza. I was exhausted with a bag full of groceries, so decided to have lunch as soon as possible to take a breather. That's when I spotted Osteria De' Peccatori, a simple, unassuming restaurant.

The menu posted outside was exhaustive, so I knew I could easily find something to order. I had no idea. The list of pastas alone was as long as my arm. Antipasti looked classic, meat and fish offerings looked good. It must have taken me 15 minutes to read the menu and I only looked at the first 2 courses. I settled on a grilled vegetable antipasto and ravioli. This was an unexpectedly great little lunch that energized me for my trek back to our rented apartment.

The restaurant had many customers speaking different languages, but mostly Italian. Few of the waiters were fluent in anything but Italian, so I had a good opportunity to try my communication skills without hearing the answer in English, a big plus in my opinion. The grilled vegetable antipasto was just perfect. It was light, refreshing, and not overcooked or greasy with olive oil. I was hungry for vegetables and this was a more than satisfactory choice.

It took a bit longer to select the pasta. There were so many classic pasta dishes, but also some with sauces I had never before seen on a restaurant menu. I finally settled on one with classic Tuscan ingredients used in a style that was very new to me. I'm looking forward to returning to De'Peccatori to try some more of their unique pasta selection. All the pasta is made in house and included ravioli, pici, tagliarini and more. This particular ravioli was made with a potato filling, the first I have ever eaten. The dressing on it was very rustic, and very Tuscan with the cavolo nero and sausage as the main ingredients. I found it very inspiring to eat such a simple yet original pasta.


Piazza San Firenze 14/r
Florence Italy 50100
055 287462

All'Antico Ristoro Di Cambi

When first walking into this restaurant, in 2005 with a party of seven, I saw and was able to taste a broad range of cooking in a single visit. Everyone was very satisfied with their selections and I ate my first Chianina beef in the form of the world famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina. A Porterhouse by another name, but not just beef, this secondo must be tried at least once. Dutifully returning when in Florence, it becomes difficult to pass up this same dish. Even though out of the way in the Oltrarno district, I continue to make the pilgrimage time and again, crossing the 3rd bridge down from the Ponte Vecchio to this well established Florentine mecca for steak. Yes, just about every other restaurant in town serves the bistecca, but I hate to lose time trying others, when I know what a superior steak awaits my visit to this particular restaurant.

Another Pappa al Pomodoro under the belt this trip, but Cambi makes it thicker than most and one can never have too much of a good thing. On the first trip my cousin ordered the stuffed vegetables that were several different varieties, but not dissimilar to these meat stuffed artichokes seen in the photo on the right. They became a very good side dish to the steak, but would be very good even on their own.

My dining companions ordered pasta for their first course and allowed me a taste of each kind. The penne with an eggplant sauce was well cooked and would make any vegetarian happy. It was made with very little tomato and some onion, but the eggplant was the star of the show. Tagliarini with porcini was redolent with the mushrooms and tasted as sumptuous as I recalled from our first meal here.

Is it bigger than a breadbasket? I don't recall a breadbasket on the table, so I'm not certain, but my educated guess would be a no. However, it was bigger than this photo would indicate. Chianina cattle produce such a tender piece of beef that you barely need a knife to cut it, and even better, it is most certainly the most intensely flavored beef I have ever eaten.

Due to custom it is always served rare. Asking for it to be served well done will in all likelihood encourage the waiter to steer you toward a different entree. When his eyes well up with tears, stop insisting on a well done steak and eat like the natives; after all, isn't that why you came to Italy in the first place? Fear not, even people who like meat burned at the stake will find this a palate pleasing, exceptional, culinary experience.


www.anticoristorodicambi.it

Via San Onofrio 1/R
Florence, Italy
Tel, 055 217134
Closed Sunday

Mamma Gina

The first time Mamma Gina came under my radar was a night when Cinghiale Bianco was closed. It was an accidental dining experience that turned out to be a good one. The second time was not by accident but by design, because I knew they had Pappa al Pomodoro, the classic Tuscan soup, on the menu. Having wanted to give it a try for a long time, lunch seemed a good opportunity for me to take the plunge and order it as a light meal. On the last occasion a table was reserved with the intentional purpose of getting reacquainted with this decent restaurant with its broad selection of Tuscan fare.

Give an Italian the most meager of ingredients and he'll come up with something tasty and filling. Pappa al Pomodoro* is a case in point. Made primarily of day old bread, tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, basil, and red pepper flakes, this gem of a soup is bright in color as well as in flavor. The acid in the tomatoes is a nice contrast to the creaminess of the bread and olive oil. So far, I like Mamma Gina's recipe the best, but I'll continue my research because this soup is worth reordering time and again.

How can one resist a fried zucchini flower? So far there has been no answer for this question and until one comes to my attention, this will remain my antipasti of choice. Mamma Gina produces a light and delicate version, well worth a try. One of the best ways to determine an authentic Italian restaurant is to discover how well the gnocchi are made. Try the spinach gnocchi pictured above and you will know how to judge them in the future. Mamma knows how to make gnocchi, light, flavorful and never gummy or pasty in texture. The basil included in this recipe added a light sweetness that worked beautifully with the tomato sauce.

Never having seen fried chicken on an Italian menu before, it was a delight to try it for the first time. Light and crisp, it was also the least greasy chicken I have ever tasted. The accompanying fried zucchini was also delicious, but a little overkill with the zucchini blossoms as our first course, so I would have preferred an unfried vegetable. Still, this kitchen staff really knows how to fry foods.

The best has been saved for last, and it was not dessert. Cannelloni Mamma Gina is outrageously flavorful and the perfect food for a cold evening. It warms your heart as well as your stomach and is probably the best cannelloni on the planet. Meat filled, tasting mostly like veal, it comes to the table swaddled in a delicate crepe, and bathed in an equally delicate bechamel. Our dining companion was ready to drive from his home in San Diego to Palm Desert to order it again, but unfortunately the sister restaurant does not have the same menu. That is truly a pity.

http://www.mammagina.it/
*Pappa al Pomodoro does not appear on the English version of the menu, but they do serve it there.

Borgo S.Jacopo, 37/r Tel.055.239.60.09
Florence Italy
Fax 055.213.908
Closed on Sunday
info@mammagina.it

Ristorante Ricchi

Ristorante Ricchi was well worth a second try. We found this restaurant the first time in 2005 and were amazed at the proprietary versions of classic Italian recipes that it was serving along with very unique modern cuisine. Nouvelle Italian is what I would call it although Nuovo Italiano is probably what the locals called it. On the right side of Piazza Santo Spirito in the Oltrarno neighborhood of Florence, this restaurant specializing in seafood was a great find.

On our first encounter with Ricchi many of the courses we ordered were refined and elegant, with some of the dishes even employing foams. My 1st course had been fried goat cheese coated in panko crumbs, with black olive pate over a salad of radicchio. For the secondo I ordered sesame encrusted duck breast with honey orange sauce and leek foam. My travel notes described it as a triumph of taste and texture. Other members of our party ordered seafood pasta that included lobster; sea bass on a bed of creamed spinach; and a smoked lamb prosciutto. The following year one of our party who had loved the restaurant reported a disappointing meal, saying that the seafood pasta was not what it once had been. I noticed it had also fallen off a website restaurant recommendation list and wondered what had happened. I wanted to find out.

There is good news, Ricchi is still open and ready for business with a competent staff and a very good chef. There is also bad news, the restaurant is struggling after several years of management missteps. It no longer seems to specialize in seafood, as the non fish offerings were broad and therefore the focus isn't as sharp, nor are the dishes themselves. No more foams, fusion, nor nouvelle approaches, but good solid Italian classic dishes with modern twists. As you can tell by the photo on the left, the Caprese salad was nicely plated and a grassy, Tuscan olive oil was on the table ready to pour over it. My dining companion ordered the pear and Gorgonzola tortelloni that was delicate and luscious.

I opted for a salad that was large enough for 2-4 servings. Very atypical of Italian salads, it combined mixed greens with green apple, walnuts, fresh strawberries and parmigiano cheese. Again, the dressing was left up to the guest so I used the balsamic and olive oil for a bright, crisp taste. Finding a large salad in Italy is getting easier, but finding one with anything more than lettuce or tomatoes is another matter. I appreciated the variety of ingredients in this salad.

Since we didn't bother with the English menu my secondo was somewhat of a surprise, a good surprise. The Italian menu read Mille Foglie and included the words chicken and porcini. I thought it would be like a pot pie with puff pastry. What I received was dish of layered boneless chicken breast, thick slices of porcini mushrooms and parmigiano cheese. It was delectable and so very fragrant, a delight for the olfactory nerves as well as taste buds. The chef is obviously creative and modern in his use of seasonal ingredients, but his talent will not scare off the local clientele who may not have been ready for the gastronomic high jinks of foams, nor the fusion direction some of the older menu items had.

The flourless chocolate tort was decadent, though not overly sweet, so the restraint made it very Italian in my mind. It was almost a pure ganache. The staff comped us a nice dessert wine. Usually on my reviews I add a link to the restaurant's website and even though I wrote it correctly, it is nowhere to be found on the Internet. Unfortunate, since it would be nice to see their menu. While you're in the neighborhood, you might want to stop by their cafe one or two doors down for the lightest, creamiest gelato we have found in Florence.

RISTORANTE RICCHI
Piazza Santo Spirito 8/R

50125 Florence, Italy
Tel: (+39) 055 280 830

Closed Sunday

Open 7:30 - 11:00 p.m.