Salumeria con Cucina Roscioli

Roscioli is a big name on the food scene in Rome. Members of the family own this restaurant as well as a bakery a block or so away on Via Dei Chiavi . Cousins own several other food venues in the city, but this post is exclusively about their enoteca restaurant, which is too simple a description for this food and wine emporium restaurant. Having read about it, Roscioli was number one on my list of new places to try on this trip. Since their pasta à la carbonara was described as being an excellent
version, I needed to see what all the fuss was about.

        

As I understand it, Roscioli started out as a salumeria and expanded itself by adding deli items such as cheeses, prepared foods, and antipasti items. The big boy in the above photo is proof of that. Italian restaurateurs lovingly show off their equipment and this slicer can probably go through a salami in seconds. Soon it expanded further to became an enoteca adding a very large selection of wines from all over Italy. Now you could probably call it a gourmet store, they call it a kitchen, but I call it a fine restaurant. The menu proves that by identifying quality products that go into each selection on their menu.  

The book that I was reading suggested that a reservation was necessary. We decided to stop by in the middle of the afternoon when we happened to be walking down Via Giubbinori where Roscioli is located. Since half the room is taken up by the deli counter and all the walls are lined with shelves filled with wine, tables were minimal. Even though it looked completely full, I asked the waiter if there was any chance that we could get a table. I told him we did not have a reservation, which did not faze him. He took a look at the back portion of the building where more tables were, and told us the best he could do was to put us downstairs. So down we went, down several flights of stairs into the basement. It was lovely. It turned out that the basement is a wine cellar that requires reservations made weeks in advance and is highly sought after by locals. After seating us, we were presented with a menu and excellent whole grain breads along with pizza bianca. I suspect it came from the family bakery.

After looking through the menu, giggling at the English translations (they call Roman pecorino cheese Romanian cheese) it was clear that we could not have a simple pasta lunch. It needed to be a culinary event, so we selected the Pecorino Ricotta and the Caprese Salad as our first courses. This was my first time tasting sheep's milk ricotta and it was even richer than cow's milk ricotta. I regret I cannot find this in the States. The basil flavored olive oil and pepper were just enough to turn it into a first course instead of an ingredient. The Caprese with the oregano emulsion (pesto) and basil flavored oil came with a cracker-like flat bread and an assortment of cured olives. We had to share, and then linger over this assemblage of flavors, textures and color.

   

As much as I wanted to select another pasta, because they were all so enticing, I dared not miss the Carbonara. Even though my stalwart dining companion would let me taste his order, I knew one bite would not be enough, so we both ordered it. Good call. Eggs check, guanciale (cured hog jowl) check, pecorino cheese (Romanian or otherwise) check, black pepper, check. Every ingredient was in perfect balance and it was truly one of the best tasting pastas we have eaten. For me, Hosteria Romana is still the favorite, but Roscioli is possibly a tie. Another plate of their Carbonara will have to determine that.

Although the dessert was listed as a Cassata, it was partially deconstructed and modernized. It was still composed of a sponge cake, ricotta, and candied fruit, but the pistachio marzipan was replaced with pistachio gelato. Not a bad idea, and not a bad cassata, very good in fact.
 

Even  though we had ordered a dessert,  our waiter appeared with a small gift from the restaurant, two biscotti and a dark, rich , melted chocolate in which to dip them. This is a restaurant we will be going back to on every revisit of Rome. We're already planning another for next year and Roscoli has played a small part in that decision. After reading the menu on their linked website, it  is evident that their menu is seasonal, another plus for this exceptional restaurant.

WEBSITE
Via dei Giubbonari, 21
Rome, Italy 00186
Tel: +39 06 6875287
Fax: +39 06 6865621
info@salumeriaroscioli.com