One can find many spots to try cichetti in Venice. Calle D'Oca, which becomes a lively place in the evening, is one of my favorites. That is so, not because it is the very best, but because of what I recall of it from previous visits.
It wasn't the salads, fried sardines, or even the small meatballs (polpettini), but the atmosphere of this very narrow street that drew me one block north of the Strada Nova near the Ca D'Oro vaporetto stop. We were introduced to this street not because of a guide book, but because of a small recessed light beaming from the door of Osteria al Bomba where we stood and saw the street extending by about 2 blocks.
The fog made the mood romantic and enticed us down the street, where we spotted Ai Promessi Sposi. I'm not even certain that it has the same or an entirely different owner, but it remains charming and crowded. In those days, there were no more than 4 tables, because cichetti are generally eaten while standing at the bar. Their case of cichetti seemed much fuller and varied than what is being served now. 45 RPM records, in a variety of colors, acted as the primary decor. Now the restaurant has expanded into the building next door with a full dining room serving complete meals including primi and secondo courses. Instead of old men, it's packed with millenials.
Both beer and wine are available and the final tab is reasonable. Admittedly, I preferred the old decor. When was the last time you saw a wall of 45 RPM records?
It wasn't the salads, fried sardines, or even the small meatballs (polpettini), but the atmosphere of this very narrow street that drew me one block north of the Strada Nova near the Ca D'Oro vaporetto stop. We were introduced to this street not because of a guide book, but because of a small recessed light beaming from the door of Osteria al Bomba where we stood and saw the street extending by about 2 blocks.
The fog made the mood romantic and enticed us down the street, where we spotted Ai Promessi Sposi. I'm not even certain that it has the same or an entirely different owner, but it remains charming and crowded. In those days, there were no more than 4 tables, because cichetti are generally eaten while standing at the bar. Their case of cichetti seemed much fuller and varied than what is being served now. 45 RPM records, in a variety of colors, acted as the primary decor. Now the restaurant has expanded into the building next door with a full dining room serving complete meals including primi and secondo courses. Instead of old men, it's packed with millenials.
Both beer and wine are available and the final tab is reasonable. Admittedly, I preferred the old decor. When was the last time you saw a wall of 45 RPM records?Osteria La Bottega Ai Promessi Sposi
Calle D’Oca 4367 – Cannaregio
+39-041-241-2747
Closed Mon. lunch and Wed.
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