Stacks

Bacon waffles bring back wonderful memories of childhood for me. Never a child of the South nor even a visitor, my Italian grandmother made these for me. When the opportunity arose I made them for my niece, while telling her stories about her great grandmother. When I read that they were on the Stack's menu I had to try them. They were very good, but the bacon was a bit too crisp for my preference. After an anointing of butter and a baptism of maple syrup they did take me to the promised land of a hearty, delicious breakfast.

They make a decent sandwich too. This ham and turkey club sandwich was proof of that. Since it was almost time for lunch when I ordered the waffle, my "usual suspect" of a dining companion was less nostalgic and ordered something more time appropriate, the aforementioned club sandwich.

On our second visit we both ordered eggs, that came with a small portion of hash browns and a small cup of fruit. The egg dishes themselves were very large portions and more than enough to fill a person. The Eggs Benedict were just as expected, but the Crab Benedict was the real stand out with a generous amount of crab and avocado slices. We had swift courteous service and judging by the line of people waiting to get in this is a very popular restaurant. Not being great breakfast or "brunch" fans we will probably not be returning soon, but someone who does prefer those meals would like Stack's. It's an upscale diner of the 21st century providing old fashioned comfort food.

Stacks' Website

501 Hayes Street  San Francisco, CA 94102 (415) 241-9011

Nopalito

Nopalito is a treasured neighborhood restaurant North of the Panhandle in San Francisco, and luckily for me, it's located in my neighborhood. That privilege affords me the ability to go there on a regular basis, so this review can be broader than many. My familiarity with it may also afford me the courage to be more candid with criticism, since no negative comment is going to stop me from returning there, nor should it discourage others from trying it. Like a relative, it may have it's short comings, but you gotta love it all the same.

One never knows where to start at Nopalito, so let's just go with the Gordito de Picadillo. For under $5 you can't go wrong with this solid little starter made of a crispy tortilla pocket, grass fed beef, refried beans and home made queso fresco.

One of the first items I ever ordered from Nopalito was the Pozole, because I like hominy, but this version was and remains too thin for my taste. I had to add all the condiments and tortilla chips to get anything close to a thicker soup. I prefer the Pozole served at Green Chile Kitchen a few blocks away.

No one, however, could fault the Carnitas that were so very flavorful and fall-off-the-bone tender, after being slowly braised and caramelized with orange, bay leaves and beer. They were excellent and are a dish I return to without hesitation. They came with corn tortillas, cabbage salad and a tomatillo salsa, so they're easy to make into a do-it-yourself carnitas taco.

Here are two variations of Nopalito's citrus salad. The first came with watermelon radishes and blood oranges, the second was made with pickled onions and blood oranges along with cara cara oranges and grapefruit segments. Both were christened with the house made queso fresco, lime and chili; both were refreshing and worth ordering again.

On the ever changing menu, you can usually find a variation of Panucho, a corn tortilla with beans, Chicken Pibil and pickled red onions; another tasty starter or small plate for under $5. Many patrons stick to the tapas, but I really find the entrees enticing, so ordering one of each works to create a full meal.

This blue corn tortilla was an item that only appeared on the menu when we first encountered the restaurant. I admired that the tortilla was house made. the Jack and fresh cheeses worked with the mushrooms and made a nice vegetarian option.

Potato Taquitos were an option one evening with respectably crunchy corn tortillas cradling the potatoes, with salsa verde and cabbage as accompaniments. There was very little guacamole, but sour cream came in a small bowl. I'd rather have more guacamole. Still it was a good vegetarian option.

Taco de Pescado al Pastor always comes with citrus fruit. The fish changes and on the occasion when I took the photograph on the right, it had been made with sturgeon with ancho chili and chimichurri sauce.

Birria de Chivo was an unexpected pleasure. It is seldom that I see goat on a menu and when I do see it, most often in Mexican restaurants, that's what I order. This was a decent recipe, but a bit skimpy on the meat, even though they did make up for that with the beans.

The best $4 ever spent at Nopalito was on the Tamal de Frijoles con Hongos y Huitlacoche, a blue corn tamale with black trumpet mushrooms and corn smut, sometimes called Mexican Truffle, because it's a fungus that grows on the corn. It was served with a guajillo salsa and crema. I have Nopalito to thank for introducing me to so many different chilies in the form of sauces.

 

Mole Manchamanteles con Pato has been my favorite entree to date. The roasted apples and sweet potatoes went so beautifully with the mole and duck leg. Their sweetness paired with the rich duck and complex mole was inspirational. I tried this combination on a cold evening and it was an extraordinary comfort food. Well priced at $12. I have never, before or since, been served duck in a restaurant for such low a price. I think this was a "loss leader".

Who could resist a Mexican Paleta for dessert? These traditional ice cream bars are something we are lucky enough to see on a regular basis in San Francisco. It was a simple but satisfying end to a very good meal.


Nopalito Website

306 Broderick Street San Francisco, CA 94117 (415) 437-0303

Open Daily 11:30am-10pm

Nopalito Website

Limon

Of all the restaurants that cater to a young, urban crowd with a great bar scene, Limon is one I will gladly brave crowds to return to, for the food. Before Limon came to San Francisco, you would be hard pressed to find a Peruvian restaurant. Now you can find several, but none as sophisticated as Limon, in either decor or cuisine. The restaurant is lively and never seems to be at a loss for patrons, even early in the evening when the average restaurant only has a smattering of customers. Their loft dining area is my only complaint, as it has a claustrophobic feel with a lower ceiling height and it lacks good lighting. On a brighter note, Limon's owners are very hands on, making sure everyone is having attentive dining service. I have never before seen a patron's napkin being folded, in his absence from the table, anywhere but at an expensive, formal restaurant. One must feel appreciated when this happens in a casual dining room.  

Ceviche seems to be a popular choice for a starter, since it is difficult to find a table that does not have an order of it sitting front and center, as you walk through the restaurant. Not surprising since we have such fine seafood available in the Bay Area, but most probably because the idea of fish chemically "cooked" when mixed with an acid, such as lime or lemon, is intriguing, especially for the uninitiated. Limon is adept at putting flavors together, like using a mango sauce with the ceviche or adding Peruvian corn on the dish to impart some sweetness to each bite. Of the three I have tried thus far, the larger serving with three different fish, each with a different sauce is outstanding.

Smaller portions are available at lunch as well as during dinner service. This photo on the left shows the ceviche with fish, shrimp and squid, bathed in lime juice and topped with red onion. The Peruvian corn has larger kernels than we commonly see, but the flavor is sweet and it goes well with the ceviche.

This photo features the shrimp and fish ceviche, again with the Peruvian corn. The portions seem the same on these small plates at both lunch and dinner. If Limon served the corn as a side dish I would certainly order it, but I suspect is is difficult to come by as it seems to be reserved for the ceviche.

What they do serve as a side dish is the fried yucca. Potatoes, move over, there's a new kid on the block. The yucca root is still starchy, but seems less dense than potatoes, a nice difference, unless it picks up more oil while being fried. They make a nice side for the meat course.

The grilled pork chop is tender and juicy, and cooked to a pale pink color. Not undercooked, but cooked perfectly for flavor. It tops a bed of shredded and sauteed cabbage, carrots, onions and zucchini. What a wonderful dish for Fall or Winter.

With such skilled grilling being done at Limon, you cannot go wrong in ordering the Rib Eye steak, or any other grilled meat they may put on the menu. The portions are generous and could easily satisfy two people if they wanted to split the order. This was again cooked perfectly to order, medium rare.

Chicharron de Pollo is another winner in the small plate division. The chicken is marinated in a spicy sauce with Aji Amarillo peppers, then deep fried to a crispy texture. I wish I could identify the flavors in the Salsa Criolla that accompanied it. For now, suffice it to say it was good; we cleaned the plate.

We ordered vegetable empanadas from the hot selection on the lunch menu. For people who just had come back from a vacation to South America, we were slightly jaded, but this dish passed the test with flying colors. The empanadas were flaky, spicy, flavorful, and compared favorably to those we had eaten on our vacation.

Pan Seared duck breast was just as well prepared as the meats. It came as a surprise that the skin was not scored, so perhaps the fat was not rendered enough for someone wanting to eat the skin. Mine remained on the plate, but I generally discard it anyway. The Brussel sprouts were nicely sauteed, but not memorable, although the delicious bean croquette was. It was mixed with cumin and I believe a little rice. The fried plantain made a nice architectural element to the plating and I enjoyed eating it too.

Prices for all the food generally ranges from $6 to $25.

http://www.limon-sf.com/

524 Valencia Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 252-0918Open Mon-Wed 12pm-10:30pm; Thu 12pm-11:30pm;

Fri-Sat 12pm-11pm; Sun 12pm-10pm

Regalito

My curiosity was piqued the minute I noticed this restaurant from across the parking lot at 18th and Valencia. Luckily they had painted their name on the side of the building or I may never have seen it. The idea of a Mexican rosticeria was appealing and set Regalito apart from most of the Mexican restaurants I had been familiar with, so when Groupon offered a discount I bought two coupons, with the hope that I would like it well enough to go back, and that's exactly what happened. I find the spare, modern influence in the decor refreshing, but wish it was a bit bigger, as it always feels crowded even when it is not yet full of patrons.

One of the features of the restaurant that I like the most is the fact that nothing is overly spicy, making the food palatable for everyone. For those of us who enjoy heat, there is a wonderful house made hot salsa on every table. It's very spicy and I for one use it sparingly, but it's plentiful for those who like it hot. 

Papas Con Chorizo makes a nice starter. Regalito pan fries potatoes and chorizo then tops them with queso fresco. Papas Con Rajas is another good choice with roasted potatoes and roasted Poblano chile strips, it's also garnished with queso fresco and in addition to that, crema. Either would make a tasty lunch.

Of all the starters, the Chicharones have my enduring allegiance. Being served with pickled vegetables is the icing on the cake. The pork itself is crispy on the outside and oozing with pork drippings and fat on the interior. The meat is just luscious. The vinegar in the pickles is perfect for cutting the richness of this delicacy.

The Ensalada Nopalitos has changed from time to time, so it may not be offered with avocado or cheese. What you will be offered is grilled cactus mixed with tomatoes onion and garlic, and that's a good start. You won't find a salad like this elsewhere. 

Elote was the item that caught my attention when first reading the ever changing menu. This traditional grilled corn just has to be tried once. It's coated in mayonnaise, cotijo cheese and chili powder, then sprinkled with lime juice. I still prefer corn absolutely plain, but this was worth trying. It's another item you won't easily find elsewhere.

Pollo Pepian was a nightly special on our first visit. What a wonderful introduction to the cuisine offered by this restaurant. The rich sauce made primarily of pumpkin seeds was delicious and left us wanting more. This casual restaurant, industrial in design with lackluster service, does not prepare you for the fine food that awaits you.

Pollo Con Mole Negro is a standard entree on the menu. The house made mole is rich without being fatty or sweet. The complex flavor worked well with the perfectly cooked and moist chicken. I was surprised that the chicken half was poached rather than cooked on the rotisserie. The portion was very generous.

While Pibil is always on the menu it may not always be chicken in a chipotle sauce like this photo. Currently the menu lists a pork pibil, slow roasted in a banana leaf, with habanero and pickled red onions. Both should qualify as a soul satisfying meal for a cold, damp night.

Granted, Enchiladas Verdes are definitely served by every Mexican restaurant in the city; no big surprise here. However, Regalito makes the best I have tasted, perhaps because the chicken is roasted and plentiful or because the sauce is better. No matter, this is where I'm coming for my next order of them.




http://www.regalitosf.com/

3481 18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94110-1745
(415) 503-0650

Jannah

I really wanted to like this restaurant more than I actually do, mostly due to my opposition to the Iraq War and my share of collective guilt at the botched job. Any Iraqi wanting to make a life for himself and his family in America should get some help from the community and I wanted to do my part. I've done my part three times now and suspect I do not particularly like the cuisine of Iraq, although lamb is a favorite meat of mine.

A+ for the pita and hummus. This  version of the Middle Eastern garbanzo bean dip was loaded with flavor and the grassy taste of the olive oil as well as the ground sumac only added to that.

 

Another winner comes forth in the form of  tabouleh. This refreshing salad of couscous, parsley and tomatoes  was bright and refreshing. The added mint was a good idea.

 

The bread and pita were warm; the dipping sauce, not so good. The lamb with an onion yogurt sauce was served with a good rice pilaf, but the lamb cut was boney, with little meat. Even a sprig if parsley or a spoonful of tabouleh would have worked wonders to give the plate some vibrancy. Visually it was so very unappealing, the taste became secondary. My partner in crime offered me a taste, but after my experience with yogurt sauce on lamb at Ziryab, I was gun shy. Next on the list of small disappointments was the dessert made with a rosewater flavored recipe similar to panna cotta. The chocolate sauce didn't work well with the rosewater. It would have been better if they had just sprinkled the pistachios on top and left it at that.

My love of lamb was definitely satisfied with the lamb kabab. Jannah served a portion of meat that was generous. It had a faint marinade flavor that was subtle and allowed the lamb to take a step forward in this dish. Again the portion of vegetables was generous and mercifully not overcooked, but they lacked seasoning. I'm still not certain what the item on the right of the photo was. It seemed like there was too much for it to be a sauce, but it was not substantial enough to be anything else.

 

As tempting as it might seem, don't try the beer, please. Even an amateur can describe this beer as being awful. Italian Peroni is a bad beer, but next to Almaza it shines. The chicken dish wrapped in phyllo sounded very appealing since, unlike Moroccan bastilla, it was being served with an apricot sauce. Unfortunately, because it was made with chicken, almonds, rice, phyllo, cinnamon and powdered sugar, the comparison with bastilla is certainly going to be made. That's the problem, because it doesn't compare favorably. When the first bite went into my mouth, it seemed to be lacking both powdered sugar and cinnamon. As one looks at the photos, they are clearly present, but in such small proportion, they were imperceptible. The filling would have been so much better if cinnamon was added to it, but again, it could not be tasted. If the fruit sauce were even the slightest bit sweet, the lack of powdered sugar wouldn't have been an issue, but it was tart without any sweetness. There was great potential in that dish, but it went unfulfilled. Maybe I'll go back for the lamb. On several occasions, it's been said that their Middle Eastern version of pizza is excellent. I'm willing to try that too.

Jannah's Menu

1775 Fulton St San Francisco CA 94117 (415) 567-4400 Hours: Mon-Thu: 5pm-9pm             Fri-Sun: 5pm-10pm