Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Biba Revisited



Biba serves Lasagne Verdi Bolognese ($18.00) every Thursday and Friday. One can only wonder how long it will take for the 3 day work week to commence. In the interim, taking a vacation day to eat lunch at this fine dining, Sacramento restaurant is well worth the effort it takes to get there, and so is the lasagne. Because this capable Northern Italian restaurant serves seasonal menus, it seems appropriate to review it a second time.

The Romaine and Gorgonzola salad ($6) reminded me of a Cesar without anchovies but was a nice light first course and our dining companion seemed to enjoy it. Did you notice I slipped in another photo of the Lasagne Verdi? It is so Bolognese, so Italian, so exemplary in taste, that it deserves another photo. Even though the menu lists it as having 7 layers, it arrived at the table with 10 layers and filled the rim soup bowl it was served in, to this diner's delight. It was so perfectly executed with Bechamel and Bolognese meat sauce lightly skimming the surface of each spinach flavored pasta sheet, that is almost melted in your mouth. Was it a twist of fate that Biba Caggiano moved to Northern California and opened this restaurant, or Divine Providence? I vote for the latter.

One of the entrees ordered was chicken with sweet peppers in a tomato sauce served over grilled polenta. Biba's polenta is so delicious when it is first cooked that one would hesitate to order it grilled (a day old and reheated leftover) but I was assured by the person who ordered it that the texture was still creamy inside. The next entree was grilled lamb on a skewer that included peppers, red onion and hot Italian sausage. Very nice, but it would have been better had it been all lamb. I had misread the menu, so the sausage was actually a surprise when it arrived. The mashed potatoes that came with it were rich and creamy with the definite addition of Parmigiano and butter or Mascarpone, or possibly both. In Bologna, they are brought to the table and the Parmigiano is sprinkled on top. This particular treatment was silkier in texture. Biba compares favorably to the best restaurants in Bologna.

This time we ordered Zuccotto Fiorentino as our dessert to share. Two courses at this restaurant are very filling, but it's always nice to have a taste of something sweet to end the meal. Mostly frozen whipped cream with chocolate, hazelnuts, almonds, a thin layer of rum soaked sponge cake and a chocolate frosting, this "dolce" was just what we needed.

After little deliberation, I believe it may be necessary and only fair to review a restaurant with seasonal menus at least 4 times. That means a return visit to Biba in Summer and Fall...I can manage that!

http://www.biba-restaurant.com/

No comments: