The first time we found Ristorante Arco di San Calisto, it was in an effort to get out of the crowds of Trastevere, the cheap restaurant mecca of Rome. We spotted a small group of tables on a quiet side street and made our move out of the maddening crowds and into a realm of quiet tranquility. It was a good move too as I ordered the best abacchio I have ever found in Rome that first night, and it brings me back time and time again. On subsequent trips we discovered the subterranean vaulted rooms and like them even better than the sidewalk location. I made a solemn promise to try the grilled lamb next trip, because the owners are so proud of their wood fired grill, one has to pass it to get into the massive dining room.
Fried zucchini flowers are popular throughout Italy, but in Rome, they are uniquely Roman. Besides the batter, they are filled with mozzarella or ricotta cheeses and then layered with a fillet of anchovy for a more savory flavor. These are not as light as the unfilled variety, but are worth a try at the very least.
Fritti Misti turned out to be a variety of fried vegetables including, zucchini, artichokes and cauliflower. Although they were good, I really wanted something to dip them in for extra flavor. They didn't compete favorably with the zucchini flowers, so I'd skip them or try not to order both at the same time. Spaghetti Amatriciana is a classic dish from this region and was well prepared with the requisite pancetta, onions and tomato. It really is perfect with grated Pecorino Romano, the regional cheese for Lazio and much of the south.
Some people think Cacio e Pepe is Carbonara without guanciale, but it's different in that it uses Cacio cheese, not Romano and Parmigiano. Although it has no meat, it's still rich from the egg yolks and cheese. It certainly makes a nice vegetarian alternative to Carbonara with its creamy texture and pepper bite.
Abbachio, the famous roasted baby lamb of Rome, gets my attention every time and I order it frequently. It may be just as flavorful at Perilli, but Arco di San Calisto always seems to offer meatier portions, so this is my favorite restaurant in which to order it. The roasted potatoes, cooked in the same pan are deeply infused with the meat drippings, and provide a perfect compliment to the tender lamb.
In my experience Tiramisu never has looked the same from restaurant to restaurant. Everyone has their own spin on it, but it is most often delicious with the mascarpone, coffee and chocolate flavors. No "lady fingers" in this version. The Tartufo is another classic dessert made up of either vanilla or chocolate gelato covered in chocolate and cocoa powder. I'm sure the amusement caused by the name has more to do with why it's ordered than the actual taste. It looks like a black truffle, according to urban legend, but I'm hoping someone, someday, with surprise me with something more added to the interior.
Via dell'Arco di San Calisto
4500153 Rome Italy
06 581 8323
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