Saturday, April 11, 2015

Brenda’s

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There’s a new girl in town and the neighborhood couldn’t be more pleased. Brenda’s has replaced Blue Jay Cafe, a restaurant specializing in not so special Southern food. Upon our arrival in the neighborhood, we decided to give it a try. Neither of us remembered what we had ordered, but I remember having to be dragged there on our 2nd visit, some 5 years later. Blue Jay’s owners decided to partner with the owner’s of Brenda’s French Soul Food, an established and popular Southern comfort food restaurant in the city.
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A fresh coat of paint did wonders for the ambiance and the new chef performed miracles in the kitchen. The last thing I ordered at Blue Jay was their shrimp and grits, seen in the upper right photo. They were so overly sauced, I couldn’t find the grits. Brenda’s version was far superior with larger shrimp, far less though superior tasting sauce, dancing upon a bowl of well cooked cheesy grits. They may have been the same ingredients, but the execution was superior. They are better than some I had tried at NOLA in New Orleans.
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Brenda’s has an old Southern recipe for rice bignets that made a good impression, and were delightful as a sweet served with up with their chicory coffee. They are the only sweet offered on the breakfast menu. Having a restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner is a treat in this neighborhood.
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Johnnie Cakes, another breakfast item, were laced with shrimp and corn kernels, amongst other vegetables, and were savory and spicy. They are served with a hot pepper butter and do not require syrup or anything else for that matter. The breakfast menu includes the shrimp and grits, gravy and biscuits, and egg dishes. French toast in on my list of new items to try.
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Chicken Etouffee and Gumbo have deep Southern roots and deeper flavor. The only misstep in the kitchen we have discovered was one time the roux for the Gumbo was too dark and left a slightly burned taste that did not improve the dish, but detracted from it.
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Fried Oyster and Shrimp Po’ Boys are both value, as well as, flavor packed. They make a filling lunch that we can barely finish at one sitting. The spicy pickled watermelon rinds are southern to the core, but are they just a garnish, or put there to be added to the sandwich? Whichever way they are intended to be eaten, their color goes a long way in adding some personality to the plating.
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Speaking of watermelon, the sweet tea uses it as a garnish. This tea, another Southern staple, is true to its name, so don’t add sugar, Sugar!
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Speaking of sweet, this chocolate cream pie put me off Southern desserts for good, unless a nightly special offers the possibility of pecan pie. The taste was decent, but the proportion of cream to filling was off and the graham cracker crust did not hold together, as though someone had forgotten to add butter the to the recipe.
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The full name of the restaurant is actually Brenda’s Meat and Three. Each evening the dinner menu includes your choice of meat or chicken along with 3 choices of side dishes. I tried the Braised Lamb Shank and selected cheesy grits, fried okra and cauliflower gratin for the sides. This was way too much food for one meal and I walked away with a very heavy doggy bag.
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My dining companion managed to finish his Braised Short Ribs with Mushroom Gravy and was smart to select less filling and more nutritious side dishes, including buttered carrots, mashed potatoes and roasted Brussels sprouts with bacon. No baggy for him.
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Southern Fried Chicken is on the lunch and dinner menus and the cost is inexpensive for the quality. All in all, even with a few exceptions, We are happy to welcome Brenda’s to the neighborhood.

Update:






Thanks to some daily lunch specials, we have now tried Crayfish Pot Pie, Succotash, Chicken and Biscuits as well as my favorite, Pork Belly with Grits and Eggs. For down home, Southern , comfort food; you need look no further than Brenda's. 

 

Brenda's Menu

919 Divisadero St
San Francisco CA 94115
1 415 926-8657

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