Saturday, December 12, 2009

All'Antico Ristoro Di Cambi


When first walking into this restaurant, in 2005 with a party of seven, I saw and was able to taste a broad range of cooking in a single visit. Everyone was very satisfied with their selections and I ate my first Chianina beef in the form of the world famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina. A Porterhouse by another name, but not just beef, this secondo must be tried at least once. Dutifully returning when in Florence, it becomes difficult to pass up this same dish. Even though out of the way in the Oltrarno district, I continue to make the pilgrimage time and again, crossing the 3rd bridge down from the Ponte Vecchio to this well established Florentine mecca for steak. Yes, just about every other restaurant in town serves the bistecca, but I hate to lose time trying others, when I know what a superior steak awaits my visit to this particular restaurant.

Another Pappa al Pomodoro under the belt this trip, but Cambi makes it thicker than most and one can never have too much of a good thing. On the first trip my cousin ordered the stuffed vegetables that were several different varieties, but not dissimilar to these meat stuffed artichokes seen in the photo on the right. They became a very good side dish to the steak, but would be very good even on their own.

My dining companions ordered pasta for their first course and allowed me a taste of each kind. The penne with an eggplant sauce was well cooked and would make any vegetarian happy. It was made with very little tomato and some onion, but the eggplant was the star of the show. Tagliarini with porcini was redolent with the mushrooms and tasted as sumptuous as I recalled from our first meal here.

Is it bigger than a breadbasket? I don't recall a breadbasket on the table, so I'm not certain, but my educated guess would be a no. However, it was bigger than this photo would indicate. Chianina cattle produce such a tender piece of beef that you barely need a knife to cut it, and even better, it is most certainly the most intensely flavored beef I have ever eaten.

Due to custom it is always served rare. Asking for it to be served well done will in all likelihood encourage the waiter to steer you toward a different entree. When his eyes well up with tears, stop insisting on a well done steak and eat like the natives; after all, isn't that why you came to Italy in the first place? Fear not, even people who like meat burned at the stake will find this a palate pleasing, exceptional, culinary experience.


www.anticoristorodicambi.it

Via San Onofrio 1/R
Florence, Italy
Tel, 055 217134
Closed Sunday

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