Proximity to a very good restaurant is the best way to find it and here's the proof. Trattoria Antico Fattore happened to be around the corner and one door down from an apartment we rented this year in Florence. If it were not for a personal recommendation and a very generous gift from our landlady, we easily could have found it on our own, as the aromas wafted across our threshold. Whenever asked about how to find good restaurants in a foreign country, my initial response is to say, "Follow your nose.", and that advice would not have failed me in this instance. How did I miss it for all the times I've been in Florence....it's a mystery. That will not be the same case in the future, because this restaurant is adept at producing excellent Tuscan cuisine that begs to never be missed again.
Crostini is the classic Tuscan antipasti. You can find it in many parts of Italy but everyone will admit to the fact that it originated in Tuscany. Liver crostini seems to be the most typical. I'm sorry, mi dispiace, but it looks like cat food to me and I just cannot wax poetic about it, indeed it's difficult to even look at this photograph, but my dining companions ate it without complaint, except to describe it as having a strong liver taste. For my tastes the grilled polenta with porcini mushrooms was exquisitely earthy and had an outstanding contrast in textures. My money is on the polenta and mushroom crostini as the clear winner in the antipasti taste test and it wins hands down in the eye appeal category too.
On my own for lunch one afternoon, I ventured in and ordered the polenta porcini crostini and the above photographed pasta dish, described as tortelli with white truffle sauce. I suspected there were also porcini in the sauce to extend it, but the sweet, earthy, truffle scent was well pronounced and quite evident in the drizzle of truffle oil on top. It may very well have been "porcini cream" with truffle oil. No matter, it was delicious and I was surprised and delighted by the filling that turned out to be made with potato and parsley.
A new one for me, this combination is worth some experimentation at home. It would be nice to reproduce with perhaps some parmigiano added. Speaking of which, the waiter warned me not to add cheese to the pasta as it would destroy the truffle taste. My underdeveloped instinct for rebellion awoke and I resisted his advice. My well developed need for conformity, however, restrained the use of the cheese and it provided the needed taste of a little salt to enhance the truffle.
Perhaps the two best known zuppe of Tuscany were served to us during our "tasting menu" specially arranged for us by our landlady Rossella Ristori Uffizi Apartment . During our negotiations for the rental I had offered to show her a few things on the computer that would enhance imagery on her website. I found her emails charming and gladly put in the time as a good deed. She felt obliged to do something in exchange, and arranging this special tasting of traditional Tuscan food was the result. The photo on the left is Pappa al Pomodoro. You can see the olive oil glistening on top. On the right is the other classic bread soup called Ribolito that literally translates to reboiled. This rich, filling, and rustic soup is primarily made of vegetables, beans, bread and olive oil. Perfect for that cold, rain drenched evening and rewarming my bones at the mere thought of it.
What could be more Tuscan than beans? The photo above shows the heartiness of the bean and sausage stew. Again another nicely executed classic recipe. The lamb and artichoke combination is a lovely rich combination of flavors and a true comfort food. Since Toscano bread is baked without salt, it makes a good vehicle for sopping up the pan juices of the lamb.
Of the three entrees we tried, the veal with porcini sauce was the dish that appealed to everyone equally. Often, this means a middle of the road, safe bet, but this selection while predictable in flavor had a heady, earthy note due to the porcini and spoke well of the Fall season. All in all, this was a very good meal and we were so full we could not manage dessert.
V.Lambertesca 1/3r
FLORENCE
Phone +39 055 288975
Fax +39 055 283341
Closed on Sunday
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