Vini Da Gigio

Few places on earth are more romantic than Venice, so doesn't that make it easy to find a romantic spot to dine? With so many of them positioned on canals, one would think it would be easy to find a romantic restaurant, but not every canal side establishment knows how to set a mood. Vini da Gigio sets the mood like a five star restaurant sets a table, inspiring hushed tones of admiration from new patrons, whether they be travelers who had heard of it and reserved a table, or tourists lucky enough to have stumbled upon it. From its position set back from the busy Strada Nova to the dimly lit dining rooms with their low, hand hewn, beamed ceilings that transport you to another century via your imagination, the mood is decidedly romantic. Although there is heavy foot traffic in Venice, the pace at night is slow enough compared to the day, that arriving after dark makes a romantic stroll possible as well. A menu that offers a selection of meats is not easy to come by in Venice, so that alone is reason enough to try this restaurant. It worked for getting me to go there as a solo diner.

My erstwhile traveling companion wanted to hike in Switzerland and ride the aerial gondolas. Having a lifelong fear of heights, the only gondolas that held any interest for me were floating not in the air, but on water. Spending a few days alone in Venice offered a great opportunity to try a few new restaurants I had been reading about, but this was not my first visit to Vini Da Gigio. We took friends and family there in 2005 when I had first seen its name in The Food of Venice cookbook. The pasta with duck sauce was excellent and roast duck was also available then, but not on this particular evening.

After a week and a half of cheese and potato laden foods in Switzerland, vegetables sounded like just the right antipasti for this visit. Their sweet and sour cippolini in the center of the plate was one of the recipes this restaurant had contributed to the cookbook, so I was happy to see it and personally evaluate the recipe; it passed the taste test. Besides string beans, zucchini, and spinach, there also was a grilled eggplant slice topped by a marinated, dried tomato; a grilled tomato and braised radicchio.

With duck unavailable, I settled for the lamb tenderloin that was encrusted in cornmeal. It arrived undercooked and I don't recall being asked how I wanted it served, however, my standard answer is medium rare. Looking at this photo one has to wonder if language translation netted me exactly what I would have preferred, since it seems medium on the outside and definitely rare on the inside. Upon looking at their website, it seems the lamb was served perfectly cooked. Not having to eat another heavy meal made me so grateful, I finished it without complaint.

http://www.vinidagigio.com/info_eng.html


Fondamenta San Felice
Cannaregio 3628A
Venice Italy
Tel. +39 041 5285140
Fax. +39 041 5228597

Take the vaparetto to Ca d'Oro, walk up the small alley and turn left onto Strada Nova. Fondamenta San Felice is on the right after you cross the first bridge.

Trattoria Dalla Marisa

Finding this restaurant on your own would not be impossible, but highly improbable, since it is an establishment known almost exclusively to locals. Also improbable was the fact that I recently met a Venetian who had moved to San Francisco and we discussed this restaurant. He mentioned the reasonable price and I had to question him as I paid 40 euros for my 5 course meal, which in itself doesn't seem too bad when the dollar is doing better against the euro, but for that particular time it was a $60 meal for one and no bargain to my estimation. He told me that it was 25 euro for locals (harrumph!)

I knew little about this restaurant except that it was recommended in Biba's Italy and was one of the few Venetian restaurants to specialize in meat and fowl rather than fish. I trust Biba Caggiano's recommendations and have used her cookbooks as travel guides for years; she always lists her favorite Italian restaurants. So I went by the restaurant on my first night in Venice and was surprised to see that there was no sign only a closed door and the number 652B on the small building. I even asked a passerby if that was the location for Marisa. He basically said..."of course", like I should have known better. I waited for it to open until dark, then gave up and tried a place down the canal. It turns out Marisa's is closed on Tuesdays.

The next night I went down about 20 minutes before it officially opened and was told that is wasn't open, but they had at least hung a sign on the wall so one could recognize that it was indeed a restaurant. I said I'd wait and was then told that the restaurant was fully booked, but was offered an outdoor table, so I sat and waited again. I asked to see a menu and was told what was on offer that night and it turned out they were only serving fish. I was disappointed until I heard about their seafood lasagne and decided on the spot that it would make a perfect light dinner. When a plate of polenta was placed on my table, it occurred to me for the first time that this was a fixed price and no option establishment. Whatever was being cooked is what I was going to be served. Not such a great position to be in with only 40 euro in my pocket. So in my limited Italian I asked the price and because I could manage it, decided to stay because of all the time I had already invested in attempting to eat there.

The next dish placed on the table was a stewed cuttlefish in a rich tomato sauce. I ate it with the polenta as quickly as I could, since the wind was coming in off the lagoon and was cooling the food down rapidly. The waiter offered me wine but with only the 40 euro in my pocket I declined. Later I discovered it was included in the price.

The next course was mostly very good. A marinated raw fillet of some fish was quite good as were the stuffed mussels, but the bacala manticato was very "fishy" and unlike the traditional recipe, did not include potato, just cod and mayo, much too strong for me. The fritto misto was beautifully prepared as the main course and included prawns, calamari, and a small fillet, but I couldn't identify the mild tasting fish. I could barely finish it.

Finishing the secondo was difficult because the star of the evening's menu came before it and was so satisfying, I could have stopped eating after finishing it. That would be the seafood lasagne pasta course. Delicate in taste, silky in mouth feel, this was the dish worth coming for. I only wish I could duplicate it. With a rich bechemel, nutmeg, and a mild fish like sole, I may be able to come close.The one thing I did notice on this trip was that each lasagne I had eaten was cooked so the pasta was what most people would consider overcooked.

The last course was composed of biscotti with a very sweet mascarpone. The biscotti themselves were not sweet or flavorful and perhaps used just as a vehicle for getting the mascarpone into one's mouth and cutting the sweetness of it just a bit. When I go back to this restaurant, I'm having my hotel make a reservation so I can sit inside and I'm definitely going to drink the wine.

652B Fondamenta San Giobbe
Cannaregio Venice
As you walk down the Lista di Spagna from the train station, this location is to your left before crossing the first bridge. Walk past Ponte Tre Archi to find it.

Chez Paul

Chez Paul was originally suggested to us by friends when they heard we would be traveling to Paris. We liked it so well we went three times during our first trip, and keep going back every time we are in Paris. This is your dream bistro, dark, moody, lace curtains in the windows, and full of classic bistro fare with rich flavors. It had 2 concessions to this century, neon lights on the ceilings, and a smoke free room. The first three times I decided on their specials which they conveniently underline in red on their menu.

My first meal consisted of a salad of butter lettuce, endive, chives and 4 pieces of duck foie gras (11 euros). On a subsequent trip I ordered it again and it had changed to butter lettuce, tomato and harcourt vert with pine nuts and 2 larger pieces of the foie gras. Perhaps it was a seasonal change, however it was still a bargain. Twice as much foie gras can be ordered for 17 euros and that comes with toasted brioche and a pickled fig. Another great starter is the lardon and poached egg salad, a classic of French cuisine.

My main course was braised lamb shank with gratin dauphinois (15 euros), a rich and filling meal. My husband ordered what he referred to as the best steak tartare of the trip (14 euros) and that could be easily shared by two people as it looked to be about 1 1/2 cups worth.

Next round, rabbit leg stuffed with goat cheese and mint...covered in what tasted like a goat cheese sauce. Like most of the menu items, this came with sauteed potatoes (which were actually crisply fried, thick round slices that were so much better than standard fries). The restaurant staff were very gracious and would have traded them for more of the gratin, which I couldn't get enough of (15 euro). The starter was a charcuterie plate that included more than one person could eat (13 euro) with country style pate, 2 types of dried sausage, rabbit rillettes, jambon, and several other cold cuts. My husband had a beautifully thick, perfectly cooked Chateaubriand in a rich wine sauce that came with the gratin (22euro). Trying to recreate my first meal, I ordered the lamb steak since I couldn't find the shank on the menu (perhaps it had been a daily special) and it was close, but no cigar. The sauce and dry cured olives that accompanied it, packed a powerful punch of flavor. Is it any wonder why we love this restaurant and return over and over again?

My last meal during our first time at Chez Paul, was the chicken in foie gras sauce over carrots, green beans and delicate pea pods. The chicken was moist and tender, the sauce rich and memorable (16 euros). Who knows what my husband had? All I could see was his gratin which did not come with my order. For dessert he had a poached pear in red wine sauce with poached prunes, apricots, and vanilla ice cream. I had the tarte tatin with creme fraiche... heavenly. Because I did not photograph our first few meals at this fine bistro, I was forced (hardly) on subsequent trips to reorder some of what we had already eaten. The wine poached pear was excellent and I finally was able to order the profiteroles I had seen there before.

On our last trip to Paris we decided to try the classic onion soup, but Chez Paul had their own take on it without the melted Gruyere on top. It was still a perfect choice on a cold day. The rabbit rillette was delicate looking but very flavorful.

We saw plates flying by us with steaks and marrow bones that were calling to me, so the next night I answered and ordered the entricote steak that came perfectly cooked to medium rare. The marrow bone may have been better if it were piping hot, but it was lukewarm and just tasted like fat. I have had better luck with lamb bones as far as flavor is concerned. Still it was fun to try.

Saving the best for last, we must discuss the risotto. Having been made with creme fraiche and Parmigiano cheese was enough of an epiphany for the palate to push this rendering of heaven in a bowl up the ranks at Chez Paul. Topping it with foie gras that lovingly melted in its embrace was a stroke of French genius. I may never think of risotto as an Italian dish again. If I ever eat anything that beats this on my hit parade of food, I'll be in a state of shock.

Update: We have been to Chez several more times at this writing and are fitting it into our upcoming plans. Unfortunately they have taken the foie gras risotto off the menu, but we begged and the chef made it for us.

It has occurred to me that even their standard offerings change with the seasonally available produce, because the last frisee and lardon salad I ordered with made with yet another chicory. Each time it has been different, but also delicious.

Their steak in peppercorn sauce was as good as ever and so was the gratin potatoes, that came in a very generous portion, as does everything at Chez Paul. So here we are, four years later and everything on the menu is consistently good. It's no wonder that this is such a well known, popular bistro. As we discuss travel to Paris, we discover more and more people who love Chez Paul as much as we do.

One more thing to add, I just adore this waitress. Not only is she efficient and good at her job, but to me she embodies the restaurant. She is "so French" and down to earth, that she would have made a wonderful subject for Toulouse Lautrec. If Chez Paul ever decides to print a poster, I insist it be in his style with this waitress front and center.

  
Chez Paul's Menu

13 Rue de Charonne

Paris 75011 France
+33 1 4700 3457
Open Noon-12:30a

Per Bacco

This Swiss restaurant, is a true palate pleasing venue filled with authentic Italian recipes and tastes. After a week of cheese laden food, we were looking for lighter fare until we noticed Per Bacco just a few doors down from the Interlaken West train station. If we couldn't have a light meal, at least we were eager for a familiar meal. Per Bacco's kitchen is manned by a Swiss, and a Portuguese chef who have learned to make Italian recipes to perfection.

Their Bolognese meat sauce was as good as we have had in Bologna, and the gnocchi were light, luscious and completely satisfying. The sauce was so rich, the cheese was superfluous, so I went without it; not necessarily as a sacrifice, but most likely because cheese was no longer on my favorite foods list. One can eat only so much!

Spaghetti Bolognese was another excellent pasta, but the menu also included pizze, and a nice selection of starters. Since this restaurant also bills itself as a "grapperia" the wine and grappa lists were substantial. As far as atmosphere is goes, it seemed more like a bar than a restaurant, but the quality of the food was a much higher standard than you will find at most other bars.


Vineria Grapperia Per Bacco
Rugenparkstrasse 2
3800 Interlaken Switzerland

Le Pirate

This photo barely creates the illusion of a sailing ship, but Le Pirate is trying to give one that impression of its decor. Cute idea and who doesn't love a pirate? We were happy to find this restaurant as the rather heavy Swiss cuisine was weighing us down, so to speak.

Their location along the marina on the shores of Lake Geneva in Lausanne, made this a fine place for a restaurant specializing in seafood. We set our course for the mussels as soon as we saw them on the menu in the restaurant window. They were plentiful and delicious and would have been enough all on their own with the fries that accompanied them, but the fish soup looked inviting as well, so down the hatch it went!

Cafe Romand in Lausanne

While in Lausanne, we wanted to try traditional Swiss cuisine. Cafe Romand was the second recommendation and the best of the two traditional restaurants that we tried. What possessed us to think we could walk into a popular restaurant on a Saturday evening without reservations is still mystifying, but that's what we did. We started out early, but one wrong turn later, it took over an hour to walk there from our hotel. The place was packed and there was a line out the door, but we stood in it nonetheless and waited our turn. As each couple made their way to the front of the line, we kept hearing the same sentence repeated over and over. "You must have a reservation to be seated; we are fully booked."

Hearing this in English helped the frustration level increase to the point where I tugged on my companion's sleeve and suggested that we leave before we had to be embarrassed with heads hung, as we slunk out of the place. "Just wait", was his reply. That sounded rather self assured for a typically impatient fellow. I suspect he had hoped that by the time it was our turn, a table would be free and we would walk to it, triumphant in our quest. Before we crossed that bridge, I insisted we hatch Plan B. After investing all this time, I wanted to get to the end of the rainbow. I whispered my plot and hoped for the best.

As we approached the head of the line and we heard the waitress ask if we had a reservation, I could see my companion's eyes dart across the room before he answered a resounding "yes"! It was Plan B in action. He gave our name, but the waitress couldn't find it, to which he responded, "But the hotel made our reservation this afternoon for 8 p.m.." The waitress moved quicker than her age would indicate possible, to find us a table. She came back with bad news, an apology, and requested the name of our hotel. Unflappable, my companion gave her the name of 5 star hotel. She scoured the list again, dashed across the filled dining room and unseated a party of 3 from their table.

My genetic predisposition towards guilt kicked in, and almost caused heart palpitations, at the thought that people were being removed from a table because of my desperation to eat dinner there and the dishonest, dastardly Plan B. As luck would have it, they only had to give up one of two tables that they had been using, and were almost finished with dessert anyway. Still clearly rattled from the entire experience, I failed to write down any names of the dishes I present to you now in the form of photographs.

It is safe to assume that the first photo is of a potato side dish called Rosti. The second is a sausage and sauerkraut classic that seemed to satisfy my companion's desire for Swiss food. We stopped the quest after this meal.

My desire to pursue Swiss cuisine was also on the decline after this meal. My heart's desire was a traditional cheese and potato dish in the first photo that was so rich, it couldn't be finished in one sitting. The beautiful and delicious apple tart was what felt like a very light finish to a very heavy dinner.

Café Romand

pl. Saint-François 2

Lausanne, 1003, Switzerland

Phone:+41 (21) 3126375

Fax:+41 (21) 3211025

Le Vaudois

As much as I'd like to recommend this restaurant, I cannot as the menu did not appeal to me even though it had a wide range of offerings. The service was slow, but perhaps that was because we were sitting on the patio on a rainy day. Why would we sit there in that type of weather? Was it because the restaurant was full and we showed up without a reservation? No, we decided to sit outside because the dining room had a very unpleasant odor that must have been a strong cheese aroma. With so much melted cheese in the cuisine, this was the strongest possibility. When we inquired at our hotel about restaurants with classic Swiss cuisine, this was the first of two restaurants mentioned. Very disappointing.

We had planned on dining out later that evening, so salad seemed like a fine light lunch. I selected the baked cheese salad and it was very satisfying. As I go through my travel journal, I'll post the type of cheese. It was fried with a nice crumb coating and it melted beautifully. The greenery under the cheese was palatable, but not flavorful.

My companion once again ordered a Cesar salad. Can't you tell by the photo? I think all of Europe is calling mixed salads a Cesar these days and you never know what you're going to get. Someone should do a photo essay on the Cesar Salads of Europe...maybe it should be me.

www.levaudois.ch

Place de la Riponne

Lausanne Switzerland 1005
phone: 021 331 2222

fax: 021 331 2223