Chez Paul

Chez Paul was originally suggested to us by friends when they heard we would be traveling to Paris. We liked it so well we went three times during our first trip, and keep going back every time we are in Paris. This is your dream bistro, dark, moody, lace curtains in the windows, and full of classic bistro fare with rich flavors. It had 2 concessions to this century, neon lights on the ceilings, and a smoke free room. The first three times I decided on their specials which they conveniently underline in red on their menu.

My first meal consisted of a salad of butter lettuce, endive, chives and 4 pieces of duck foie gras (11 euros). On a subsequent trip I ordered it again and it had changed to butter lettuce, tomato and harcourt vert with pine nuts and 2 larger pieces of the foie gras. Perhaps it was a seasonal change, however it was still a bargain. Twice as much foie gras can be ordered for 17 euros and that comes with toasted brioche and a pickled fig. Another great starter is the lardon and poached egg salad, a classic of French cuisine.

My main course was braised lamb shank with gratin dauphinois (15 euros), a rich and filling meal. My husband ordered what he referred to as the best steak tartare of the trip (14 euros) and that could be easily shared by two people as it looked to be about 1 1/2 cups worth.

Next round, rabbit leg stuffed with goat cheese and mint...covered in what tasted like a goat cheese sauce. Like most of the menu items, this came with sauteed potatoes (which were actually crisply fried, thick round slices that were so much better than standard fries). The restaurant staff were very gracious and would have traded them for more of the gratin, which I couldn't get enough of (15 euro). The starter was a charcuterie plate that included more than one person could eat (13 euro) with country style pate, 2 types of dried sausage, rabbit rillettes, jambon, and several other cold cuts. My husband had a beautifully thick, perfectly cooked Chateaubriand in a rich wine sauce that came with the gratin (22euro). Trying to recreate my first meal, I ordered the lamb steak since I couldn't find the shank on the menu (perhaps it had been a daily special) and it was close, but no cigar. The sauce and dry cured olives that accompanied it, packed a powerful punch of flavor. Is it any wonder why we love this restaurant and return over and over again?

My last meal during our first time at Chez Paul, was the chicken in foie gras sauce over carrots, green beans and delicate pea pods. The chicken was moist and tender, the sauce rich and memorable (16 euros). Who knows what my husband had? All I could see was his gratin which did not come with my order. For dessert he had a poached pear in red wine sauce with poached prunes, apricots, and vanilla ice cream. I had the tarte tatin with creme fraiche... heavenly. Because I did not photograph our first few meals at this fine bistro, I was forced (hardly) on subsequent trips to reorder some of what we had already eaten. The wine poached pear was excellent and I finally was able to order the profiteroles I had seen there before.

On our last trip to Paris we decided to try the classic onion soup, but Chez Paul had their own take on it without the melted Gruyere on top. It was still a perfect choice on a cold day. The rabbit rillette was delicate looking but very flavorful.

We saw plates flying by us with steaks and marrow bones that were calling to me, so the next night I answered and ordered the entricote steak that came perfectly cooked to medium rare. The marrow bone may have been better if it were piping hot, but it was lukewarm and just tasted like fat. I have had better luck with lamb bones as far as flavor is concerned. Still it was fun to try.

Saving the best for last, we must discuss the risotto. Having been made with creme fraiche and Parmigiano cheese was enough of an epiphany for the palate to push this rendering of heaven in a bowl up the ranks at Chez Paul. Topping it with foie gras that lovingly melted in its embrace was a stroke of French genius. I may never think of risotto as an Italian dish again. If I ever eat anything that beats this on my hit parade of food, I'll be in a state of shock.

Update: We have been to Chez several more times at this writing and are fitting it into our upcoming plans. Unfortunately they have taken the foie gras risotto off the menu, but we begged and the chef made it for us.

It has occurred to me that even their standard offerings change with the seasonally available produce, because the last frisee and lardon salad I ordered with made with yet another chicory. Each time it has been different, but also delicious.

Their steak in peppercorn sauce was as good as ever and so was the gratin potatoes, that came in a very generous portion, as does everything at Chez Paul. So here we are, four years later and everything on the menu is consistently good. It's no wonder that this is such a well known, popular bistro. As we discuss travel to Paris, we discover more and more people who love Chez Paul as much as we do.

One more thing to add, I just adore this waitress. Not only is she efficient and good at her job, but to me she embodies the restaurant. She is "so French" and down to earth, that she would have made a wonderful subject for Toulouse Lautrec. If Chez Paul ever decides to print a poster, I insist it be in his style with this waitress front and center.

  
Chez Paul's Menu

13 Rue de Charonne

Paris 75011 France
+33 1 4700 3457
Open Noon-12:30a