Nestled on a narrow street in the Castello region of Venice is a delightful restaurant of some fame and good reputation, Al Mascaron. It has been mentioned in many of the travel guides I have researched and referenced in a cookbook as well. I went there specifically for the risotto that unfortunately is no longer available and has even been stricken from the menu. When I inquired why that was, I was told it was because few tourists had the patience to wait for a risotto to be made properly, and because it took time, it also required 2 or more patrons to order it together. Mentioning that my patience was legendary did not get me a risotto, because the kitchen was no longer stocked with the rice. Looking at the menu again only led to further frustration, since my 2nd choice of seafood pasta also required an additional person to order it.
Noticing my disappointment, the waiter said that I could place an order and he would split it for me. I was delighted at this accommodation and promptly ordered the seafood pasta and a bottle of water. When the water came to the table it was a very large bottle. It seemed odd to bring such a large amount of water to a lone diner. If the establishment was trying to increase the final cost of the bill, I needed to know to budget accordingly. Upon inquiring about the price of the pasta, it was a relief to learn that my single serving was going to be half the price of the full serving. Being offered a free antipasti of sweet and sour onions and a stuffed potato with mozzarella and prosciutto eased my fears, and reminded me of the "presumption of innocence until proven guilty".
The spaghetti with clams, mussels, and shrimp was excellent with garlic, olive oil and the obligatory confetti of parsley. It felt as though I had discovered the prize in the Cracker Jack box, when the prawn showed up in the middle of the plate, buried under the mound of pasta. I had no plans to order dessert, but when the waiter told me about the chocolate chili cake, I indulged myself. That exotic, decadent mixture of chocolate and spice seemed appropriate for a culture responsible for bringing chocolate from the Americas and spices from the Far East to Europe. The cake was a complimentary combination of those two ingredients with a light hand on sugar.
Speaking of a complimentary combination of two...meet Gigi and Maggio (maybe it's Maccio). Since I was alone, Maggio decided to show me his masterful skill at the art of Italian flirtation. My feet are firmly planted on the ground and I understood this to be part of his personality and not intended for me in particular, but anyone in general. Still, it was nice to have an extended conversation with a Venetian. I asked if he was the owner and he said no in a very self effacing way, then introduced me to Gigi who had his back to me, while shelling beans at the next table. Essentially trapping me at my table, Gigi was in part responsible for my ordering of the dessert; I didn't want to disturb him. Admittedly, it was a great afternoon and ordering the dessert was probably an unconscious effort to lengthen my stay.
Soon both men were engaged in the activities of shelling borlotti beans and talking to me. Gigi was the Abbot to Maggio's Costello; the straight man, but very simpatico and charming. When I asked for the check, there was a short conversation in Italian and I was told to pay twenty euros. This didn't add up since my pasta was 15, the water was at least 5, and the dessert would have been typically 7 or 8, and there certainly must have been a coperto (service charge). I questioned the amount, but they insisted that my price was 20. One can only hope the 10 euro tip actually paid fully for the meal. The entertainment factor alone was worth the price of the meal. After reading a few reviews of the restaurant over the Internet, I can see that everyone walking through the door is treated like family. I also discovered that the very pleasant Gigi is not only the co-owner of the restaurant but the chef, Giancarlo Seno. No wonder Maggio laughed, when after tasting the cake, I told him he should marry the chef. If you ever wondered what it is like to be part of an Italian family, live out your fantasy at this restaurant.
Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa 5225
Castello Venice
phone +39 041 522 5995
Fax: +39 41 523 0744
Just north of Campo Santa Maria Formosa
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