Trattoria Enzo & Piero

With the world getting smaller every day and change happening at lightening speed, it is a true comfort to find a familiar place that brings you back to a simpler time. Enzo and Piero is that place for me. I discovered it on my first trip to Florence, half a lifetime ago. It looks the same and has many of their time tested recipes, including my favorites, from so many years ago. This is the right restaurant for a good value too, as the prices seem to be in a time warp. Chicken entrees start at 7 euro even though I haven't seen "Secondi" priced in single digits in many years. Salads start at 5 euro, pasta at 7-8 euro and contorni start at 3 euro. Enzo & Piero is run by the next generation of the same family who originally served me their unforgettable Lasagne Verdi di Pasta Fresca al Forno, a melt in your mouth comfort food if ever there was one.

The mouth feel of this dish is soft and velvety with a butter like texture, since the pasta was fresh when assembled. Like a classic Lasagne Verdi Bolognese it combines Bechamel and meat sauces, but unlike the Bolognese version this one uses thicker pasta and has fewer layers. It appears more rustic, but has the same sophisticated flavors as its equal in Bologna.

In Fall you would do well to order the Tagliarini Tartufati. This egg enriched pasta is served with shaved truffles and arugula, an interesting combination since the earthiness of the truffles was enhanced by the slight spicy bite of the arugula. Lardo Di Colonnata is not everyone's idea of a delicacy, but the first time I tried it, I was hooked. When it tops a bruschetta it can be at it's very best, but the criteria for excellence is twofold. Lardo must be sliced paper thin and layered upon a hot piece of toasted rustic bread. Without the heat, it does not melt sufficiently to blend onto the bread, releasing its flavor. If Enzo and Piero has a fault, it is one of generosity. They simply used too much lardo.

The menu offers a full range of Tuscan specialties from Antipasti to Zuppe and I was impressed to see that the prosciutto was Tuscan also. The photo above shows salami with fennel seeds, another Tuscan pork specialty called Finocchiona. It also had a buttery, moist texture, much less dry than most salami. One night when we were there, I ordered one of the pasta specials on offer, a porcini ravioli with a light ,fresh tomato sauce. I was not disappointed with it even though it was torture not to order my own lasagne verdi. Luckily I could count on my dining companion to offer me a taste of his. To top off the meal, fresh strawberries with mascarpone and chocolate were a refreshing yet rich delight.

http://www.trattoriaenzoepiero.it/
105r Via Faenza
Firenze 50123
055 21 4901
Closed on Sunday