Les Philosophes

 

Not being crazy for outdoor seating in Paris didn’t stop me from eating lunch at the only available table offered by Les Philosophes in the Marais. The romance of the notion seldom translates into the reality of the situation, especially when you’re choking on exhaust fumes. But I have to admit that if there were a bit more space between tables, this would have been a very enjoyable use of time, and the quintessential Parisian dining experience too. First of all Les Philosophes was a bistro, the weather was lovely, but most importantly it sat in the middle of a pedestrian zone. This affordable restaurant is a bit slow on service, but the servers were gracious. Unfortunately, since smoking is no longer allowed indoors, you will find yourself sitting cheek by jowl with smokers. Still it’s better than automobile exhaust.

The menu consisted of classic bistro fare that was well prepared. One example was the steak tartar. No mystery in this one, since all the ingredients were there on the plate, allowing the diner to use more or less of the garnishes to taste. The only one not seen in the photo was the Dijon mustard. The French fried potato slices were an inspired side for the tartar. The crisp, warm potato worked as a strong counterpoint to the cool, soft beef. These together were more than the sum of their parts; they were more than just meat and potatoes.

When the word tart comes to mind, I visualize a thin crust and a light layering of the filling. This tomato tart seemed more like a pie, and it may have been as sweet as one. It was outstanding in the flavor. I suspect the tomatoes were vine ripened when they went on the crust and into the oven, and were therefore sweet, but the caramelization that occurred during baking intensified that sweetness, and for the first time, I could really embrace the fact that tomatoes are fruits, not vegetables. I hope I get another chance to order a tomato tart in France, because this one was outstanding in flavor and texture, and I’d like another for comparison.

 

Why is it that whenever I order a lamb chop in France, it’s never French cut? It’s a mystery, but one that I don’t need to solve. I just need to remember to order a rack and then I’ll see what I’m expecting on my plate. No matter the shape, this was a tasty cut of lamb, however a little tougher than I would have preferred. The fact that it was flanked on both sides by those lovely potatoes was enough to keep me distracted from the texture of the meat. The sauteed  haricot vert as well as the tomatoes and peppers were a nice addition to the plate that I hadn’t anticipated. They really provided a visual lift to the order and brought much needed color to the table.

28 Rue Vieille du Temple 75004 Paris, France 01 48 87 49 64